Cordoba: What a beautiful surprise

I actually had no desire or plan to go to Cordoba when I thought about my vacation in Spain. But while I was in NYC in late June I met with a friend and she mentioned how beautiful it is and that she has a friend there. I looked it up on the map, read about it in the guide book and thought, yeah, sure, why not? At that point I was also convinced (how I still don’t know) that there was an overnight ferry to the Canary Islands from Cadiz, and Cordoba would be a good place between Madrid and Cadiz to break up the journey. So it was with this in mind that we set out for Cordoba from Madrid, for a 2 night lay-over on our way to the Canary Islands.

Back in June I had been in contact with Maricarmen, Angela’s friend, and she had been so thoughtful and kind in her emails I was excited to meet her. Of course Angela spoke wonderfully of her as well. We arrived after midnight and Maricarmen was waiting for us. She had a pile of tourist information pamphlets for all sorts of things to do and see in and around Cordoba. We were excited.

But first things first! We had to figure out our tix for the Canary Islands. So we spent the entire next day in front of the computer searching the internet, only stepping out to grab some food not even leaving the street we were on. By the afternoon I realised that I was way off in my belief about the ferry. In fact, it took 2.5 days and cost much more than a plane ticket. Not only that, but the cheapest, by far, plane ticket to Tenerife was from Madrid… where we had just been 12 hours ago! Damn it. After hours on end of looking at different itineraries, possibilities, combinations, negotiating with each other, etc., we finally came to the conclusion that we would not be going to Tenerife because it was too expensive and cumbersome at that point. Ok, with that out of the way, we had more time for everything else in Spain. So we relaxed into the idea that we could take our time in Andalucia, and make our way back up to Barcelona slowly.

Just the day before, when we were in Toledo still, I had gotten a phone call from a friend I had been trying to contact for some time by email and phone but without response. I met Pedro during a yoga training in October 2007 and we became very close. He is based in Granada with his wife and I really wanted to see them. When he called he told me that he would be arriving in Cordoba just the day after we were! Perfect! And that he would stay for a long weekend and that we could head back with him. Great!

Once we started walking around Cordoba we realised we really really really liked it. It was very hot starting around 13:30 until about 17:30, but it was lovely to walk around in the morning and in the evening. The old town was walking distance from Maricarmen’s and we enjoyed it so much. We peeped into the Cordoban patios (there is even an annual contest for the best Cordoban patio), and walked aimlessly up and down the narrow streets of the old town (which was the Jewish quarter, similar to Toledo and Girona). We spent an entire morning, and could have stayed even longer but it was Friday and we were trying to make it to all the places which have free entry on Friday, at the Cathedral-Mosque, a very peaceful place full of energy. Neither one of us is really into museums but we enjoyed very much Julio Romero de Torres’s portraits of Cordoban women. The generalife gardens were refreshing, and the mosaics made of stone were impressive. We went for a flamenco show, Nisarga’s first, at the generalife gardens. The city by night is just as precious, lit up, alive, buzzing with people walking around. The views from along the river quadaquivir are quite romantic.

Now about the food! I can’t even begin to describe it in words. The smells and the taste and the look of it, it was heaven for me! Salmorejo, a thicker and slightly different version of Gazpacho; sangria; hormigas made from bread crumbs with garlic and sausage; sangria; sausage cooked in wine; sangria; morcilla which is also known as blood sausage which I had not had in close to a decade I think; sangria; sardine-like little fish in vinegar; sangria; cheese; sangria… I could go on but I think I’m gaining weight just writing about it. The food was soooo delicious, it was amazing. Maricarmen also introduced us to Tinto de Verano, which is red wine with spritz/ seltzer water/ tonic, and lemon. Yum! Refreshing. Love it!

Maricarmen had told us of a well known local restaurant near by, Morilles, which served traditional Cordoban food of great quality. So we went for lunch and stuffed ourselves to the rim; maybe even beyond. That night we met with Pillar and Pedro and they took us out to dinner. Guess were we ended up? Morilles! And again, we pigged out. That place is soooo good. Ok, let me stop because I’m really craving Morilles right now. Nisarga was a bit strapped for choices in Cordoba (his faithful friend the tortilla espanola was becoming a little too familiar) but I would return to Cordoba just for lunch or dinner any day!

Another highlight in Cordoba was meditating with Pedro and Pilar, and Nisarga giving reiki initiation to Pilar. It was at Morilles that she asked for it and he was surprised and honored. Since she is about 3 months pregnant that night we went straight to google for information on giving reiki to pregnant women. Aparently it’s not only not a problem, it can be helpful! Nisarga was so super excited about giving reiki to a fetus! It was a beautiful and peaceful and loving evening we shared with them that night.

We walked a lot in Cordoba, we enjoyed it very much. Nisarga felt like he could have stayed there for some time, he felt really that at home. But after 4 full days we said thank you and goodbye to Maricarmen, her brother and her roommate, hopped in the car with Pedro and headed for Granada.

Thank you Angela, thank you Maricarmen and family, thank you Pedro and Pillar, thank you Morilles!

our album on picassa from cordoba can be found at: http://picasaweb.google.com/nisargaanddeepa/Cordoba?authkey=mMHyNK4-9zQ#

and for more information on cordoba in english, go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%B3rdoba,_Spain

for polish go to: http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kordowa