Sikkim

Sikkim is a state that is not technically part of the group of states that form India’s Northeast, but since it is also way out here (we are working on it, map coming soon!) this region is often referred to as Sikkim and the Northeast. In fact, Sikkim’s neighbour to the west is Nepal, to the north and Northeast it is Tibet and China, and to the Southeast it is Bhutan. Its link to India is from the South, where it is bordered by the state of West Bengal. There is no airport so the only way to get here is to fly or take the train into northern West Bengal, as we did, and then drive up. Just as we crossed the border from Bengal we were greeted by patches of red, purple, fuccia, and pink splattered throughout the side of the road during our windy 5 hour drive, with poinsettas growing in the wild everywhere.

It is a mountainous state and the air is crisp and clean. It was an independent kingdom until 1975, and has long been considered one of the last Himalayan Shangri Las. Mountain valleys which plunge from spiky Himalayan peaks are lushly forested with pine and rhododendron trees. Near the Sikkim-Nepal border, and visible from Gangtok and many other towns and points around the state, is Khangchendzonga (8598m), the world’s third highest mountain.

The main language in Sikkim is… Nepali! The “original” Sikkimese migrated here from Assam and Myanmar/Burma, followed by those fleeing religious strife in Tibet. The Nyingmapa form of Mahayana Buddhism arrived to Sikkim with three refugee Tibetan lamas who bumped into each other at Yuksom, just north of Pelling. There, in 1641, they crowned Phuntsog Namgyal as first chogyal (king) of Sikkim. At their most powerful, the chogyals’ rule included eastern Nepal, upper Bengal and Darjeeling. However, much territory was lost during wars with Bhutan and Nepal, and throughout the 19th century large numbers of Hindu Nepali migrants arrived, eventually forming the majority of Sikkim’s current population.

The state government has earned a reputation as the most environmentally aware in India, including fining people who pollute steams (unheard of!). It promotes organic farming and foods even. It is noticeably much cleaner here in comparison to the rest of India, and plastic bags are totally banned (no, really, they are, not like the supposed ban in Himachal Pradesh). The official state animal: the red panda! No smoking signs can be found throughout restaurants, and you hardly see people smoking cigarettes or biddies (Indian cigarettes). Drivers hardly honk when they drive, and when they do honk they do so once and lightly… very civilized.

China has never officially recognized India’s claim to Sikkim, so to maintain pro-Delhi sentiments, the Indian central government has made Sikkim a tax-free zone, and has poured tons of money into road building, electricity, water supplies and local industry… including liquor production. As a result Sikkim is surprisingly affluent by Himalayan standards, and most Indian standards really, and unfortunately it also has the highest alcoholism rate in the country. As we were entering Gangtok we noticed a large building complex brightly and boldly marked as a rehabilitation centre. And when we went out walking the first day we could not get over how many liquor stores we passed, at least one for every block it seemed. And that was only outdone by the name brand stores we saw: Puma, United Colours of Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger, Addidas, etc. Granted, being this close to China, some of the defected items or imitations must make it to these shelves, maybe, but still, these are authentic stores from these labels! Hell, Delhi got its first Puma store just a couple of years ago. We walked along Mahatma Gandhi Marg, which 2 years ago was converted into a pedestrian only walk way and is wider then most roads in Delhi (I exaggerate but it was obviously a double lane two way road before). There are benches and flower pots that run along the middle and stores, restaurants, etc… along the sides. It’s soooo lovely!!!

And guess what we found here? POSTCARDS!!! Beautiful, big, postcards. And what else did we find? Celebrations full force for World AIDS Day, December 1st. Apparently they started about 2 or 3 years ago. There was a booth at MG Marg, with a wall to sign, red ribbons being given out, informational pamphlets for distribution, and the schedule of events for Dec. 1st including a walk through town finishing with a rock concert! (Rock is big in the Northeast) Young men and women were all over it and as we walked along we crossed paths with many proudly wearing their red ribbons. When we got back to our hotel for a snack, the manager showed me his two red ribbons and bunch of pamphlets. I was very impressed!

One big BUT… it’s dam cold at night here! It’s chilly during the day, unless you are walking or staring at the sun, but at night… BBBBRRRRR. And I don’t fare well in the cold, I so don’t. I was in an incubator as a baby after being born because my body temperature was too low and I really don’t think it ever adjusted fully. On the other hand, I guess this is good practice for our time in Nepal, next week (what was I thinking when I agreed to that?). When we left Gangtok and headed 4 hours West to stay at Pelling for a few days, we started to wear our gloves even during the day! And Nisarga wore his hat at all times… to sleep, to go to the bathroom, throughout the day! I even bought a hat with fleece lining. Did I mention BBRRRRRR? Yes! BBBBRRRRRR. Our noses were permanently red and frozen.

The weather, and the travel I suppose, took its toll on our health a bit. While my diarrhoea stopped once I started eating meat (I always had faith pork and chicken would help not hurt me!), my runny nose, cough and phlegm filled chest is on its second week. Nisarga went through almost 2 days of fasting, but two days later he was up for a couple of hours vomiting and shitting everything out. During our three days in Pelling I stuck to one meal per day consisting of chicken noodle soup and cheese momos (dumplings), and after his long night in the bathroom Nisarga stuck to porridge, butter toast and bananas.

Another first during this trip was Nisarga experiencing an earthquake. Not a grand scale one, but the unmistaken feeling of the earth shaking beneath your feet and moving along with it everything around you was definitely there. Having experienced these soft earthquakes in Lima and Delhi (when the epicentre was Kashmir!) I knew right away but he was confused and baffled. By the time we got to the door and opened it, it was all over, and he asked the people from the hotel about it and they said it was normal. Tremors continued, another 3 or 4, throughout the day… sending us in a state of alarm and tension each time. I suppose since the Himalayas are still growing… maybe that was just them stretching a bit. A bit nerve wrecking however given that these constructions don’t seem so dependable, and that the Northeast (although not Sikkim) is known for its civil unrest and bombs and blasts here and there. Aagggg.

for all our pictures from sikkim, go to: http://picasaweb.google.com/nisargaanddeepa/Sikkim#