Buddhist Monasteries

Tibetan-style monasteries (gompas) are scattered throughout the state and were a highlight of our visit. Unlike the monasteries we have seen around Mcleodganj or the ones I have seen in Leh, these are approached through long roads of tall, colourful, prayer flags set on long bamboo poles, adding a royal feeling to the ambiance.

Just outside of Gangtok we visited Rumtek Gompa, the surrogate home of Buddhism’s Kagyu (Black Hat) sect. We sat for a one-hour vipassana meditation in the monastery building which was very soothing for us both. The monastery building was constructed between 1961 and 1966 to replace the Tsurphu Monastery in Tibet, which was destroyed during China’s Cultural Revolution. The giant throne within awaits the crowning of Kagyu’s current spiritual leader, the 17th Karmapa (of the level of the 14th Dalai Lama), whose picture rests there for the time being. This young lama fled from Tibet in 2000 but is based in Dharamsala because Indian authorities have prevented him from officially taking up his Rumtek seat out of fear of upsetting the Chinese government. Perhaps that is why there was so much military presence at the complex. In fact, I think we saw more camouflage and arms and boots then we did maroon robes and shaven heads. The sect is called Kagyu because of the priceless ruby-topped headgear used to crown the Karmapa (spiritual leader) during key ceremonies. Being woven from the hair of angels, as it is said, the hat must be kept locked in a box to prevent it from flying back to the heavens. Nobody has seen it since 1993, when the 16th Karmapa died. Only when the 17th Karmapa is finally crowned will the box be unlocked again. We really hope that is soon, because the military’s presence is absolutely distracting and disturbing to the whole peaceful and spiritual environment at the otherwise very village-like Rumtek Gompa Complex.

The Lingdum Gompa we visited near Rumtek greeted us with young lamas chanting at the end of their afternoon lessons and prayers. This soundtrack to the sun setting across the valley was enchanting. We found this Gompa vibrant and peaceful, beautifully decorated, and somewhat regal as it rises out of the forest and hill top.

In Pelling, we first went to Sangachoeling Gompa, the second oldest gompa in Sikkim dating back to the 1600s. Its magnificent ridgetop setting is reached by a steep walk up between a walled passage. Once there, there were several white washed stupas enclosed in long prayer flags to greet us. We sat for one-hour in vipassana meditation here as well, and the drum beating, chanting, and other instruments played by an old monk on the top floor was a wonderful companion. Nisarga made an insightful point while we were walking up to the monastery, that while in Europe at ridgetops and at the highest hills you will find castles, because that is the best setting for defence against war, here you find monasteries, perhaps because it is thought to be the best setting to be closer to God.

We also went to Pemayangtse Gompa, which dates back to 1705 and is one of Sikkim’s oldest and most significant Nyingmapa gompas. Pemayangtse translates as “perfect sublime lotus”. Just before entering the compound there is a sign that reads: “These iron poles with prayer flags are dedicated to all sanctient beings of six different realms for eternal liberation and particularly for the under mentioned persons and victims by negative forces…” The numbered list includes “Twin Towers 9/11”; “Coalition Forces in Iraq”; “Sergio-De-Melo (U.N. Envoy) and Anna Lindh”; “Madrid Train Blast”; “Iran Earthquake 2003”; “And to the victims of genocide, mass murder, ethnic cleansing round the world, Yugoslavia, Serbia, Haitia, Rwanda, Nigeria, Zimbabwe, Liberia (Monrovia), etc”. WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW!

This compound is ringed by gardens and traditional monks’ cottages. We sat for a one-hour vipassana meditation here as well, but I must admit I could not remain centered the full hour with the sounds of the young lamas outside and the small but lively birds flying in and out. Upstairs, fierce looking statues depict all 8 of Padmasambhava’s incarnations. And on the top floor is an astounding seven-tiered model of Padmasambhava’s heavenly abode which as hand-made over the course of five years by a single dedicated lama! WOWOWOWOWOWOWOW.

Who is this Padmasambhava guy you ask? According to our travel bible, The Lonely Planet: “Known as Guru Rinpoche in Tibetan, Sibaji in Nepali/ Hindi, and Padmasambhava in Sanskrit, this 8th-Centrury ‘second Buddha’ is credited with introducing Tantric Buddhism to Tibet. Padmasambhava statues and murals are common throughout Sikkim. In his most classic form, he’s usually shown sitting cross-legged with wild, staring eyes and a trisul rod tucked into the folds of his left sleeve. This leads to the form with a trio of heads in progressive stages of decomposition representing the three kayas (aspects of enlightenment). Padmasambhava has 7 other alternative manifestations. The most striking of these, Dorje Bhurpa Vajrakila, shows him with three frightful heads and a lusty wench gyrating on his groin.” Thank you Lonely Planet.

Now a bit about Buddhist Tantra from our tantra teacher Ma Ananda Sarita: “The word Tantra is Sanskrit and has several interpretations, including ‘the way’ but also ‘methods’ and, in an expanded sense, ‘methods of going beyond’. It can mean ‘transformation’ and, in an expanded sense, ‘transformation of poison into nectar… In Tibet, the marriage of Buddhism with the native ancient Shamanistic Bonn religion gave Tantra a very different background. It is more death-oriented, with adepts meditating in graveyards or imagining their consort as a skeleton. Through this type of meditation you can transcend sex and thereby birth. It focuses on leaving behind the wheel of birth and death and the transcendence of the physical dimension.”