About Us

traveling around, India
sanyasins, seekers, travellers, companions,life lovers...

thank you for joining us on these journeys...

internal, external, individual, shared, in place, in movement, with friends, with family, with lovers, with strangers, with soul mates, with teachers, with guides, in body, in formlessness, through fire and heat, with rains and oceans, with breezes and storms, under the stars and the moon and the sun and the planets, with dust and dirt and mud, with flowers and butterflies, with arousing smells, in mind, in the heart, in the soul, in spirit, in this life time, in past life times, through time, in timelessness, in laughter, in tears, with screams of joy fear and pain, in silence, linear, clear, vague, zigzag, full of curves, with tons of detours, with a purpose, without a destination...

(if you wish to view any of the pictures posted in the blog in larger format, click on the picture with your mouse and it will popup as a full screen picture. use the back arrow to go back to the post once you are done viewing the enlarged picture)

Saturday, November 29, 2008

Sikkim

Sikkim is a state that is not technically part of the group of states that form India’s Northeast, but since it is also way out here (we are working on it, map coming soon!) this region is often referred to as Sikkim and the Northeast. In fact, Sikkim’s neighbour to the west is Nepal, to the north and Northeast it is Tibet and China, and to the Southeast it is Bhutan. Its link to India is from the South, where it is bordered by the state of West Bengal. There is no airport so the only way to get here is to fly or take the train into northern West Bengal, as we did, and then drive up. Just as we crossed the border from Bengal we were greeted by patches of red, purple, fuccia, and pink splattered throughout the side of the road during our windy 5 hour drive, with poinsettas growing in the wild everywhere.

It is a mountainous state and the air is crisp and clean. It was an independent kingdom until 1975, and has long been considered one of the last Himalayan Shangri Las. Mountain valleys which plunge from spiky Himalayan peaks are lushly forested with pine and rhododendron trees. Near the Sikkim-Nepal border, and visible from Gangtok and many other towns and points around the state, is Khangchendzonga (8598m), the world’s third highest mountain.

The main language in Sikkim is… Nepali! The “original” Sikkimese migrated here from Assam and Myanmar/Burma, followed by those fleeing religious strife in Tibet. The Nyingmapa form of Mahayana Buddhism arrived to Sikkim with three refugee Tibetan lamas who bumped into each other at Yuksom, just north of Pelling. There, in 1641, they crowned Phuntsog Namgyal as first chogyal (king) of Sikkim. At their most powerful, the chogyals’ rule included eastern Nepal, upper Bengal and Darjeeling. However, much territory was lost during wars with Bhutan and Nepal, and throughout the 19th century large numbers of Hindu Nepali migrants arrived, eventually forming the majority of Sikkim’s current population.

The state government has earned a reputation as the most environmentally aware in India, including fining people who pollute steams (unheard of!). It promotes organic farming and foods even. It is noticeably much cleaner here in comparison to the rest of India, and plastic bags are totally banned (no, really, they are, not like the supposed ban in Himachal Pradesh). The official state animal: the red panda! No smoking signs can be found throughout restaurants, and you hardly see people smoking cigarettes or biddies (Indian cigarettes). Drivers hardly honk when they drive, and when they do honk they do so once and lightly… very civilized.

China has never officially recognized India’s claim to Sikkim, so to maintain pro-Delhi sentiments, the Indian central government has made Sikkim a tax-free zone, and has poured tons of money into road building, electricity, water supplies and local industry… including liquor production. As a result Sikkim is surprisingly affluent by Himalayan standards, and most Indian standards really, and unfortunately it also has the highest alcoholism rate in the country. As we were entering Gangtok we noticed a large building complex brightly and boldly marked as a rehabilitation centre. And when we went out walking the first day we could not get over how many liquor stores we passed, at least one for every block it seemed. And that was only outdone by the name brand stores we saw: Puma, United Colours of Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger, Addidas, etc. Granted, being this close to China, some of the defected items or imitations must make it to these shelves, maybe, but still, these are authentic stores from these labels! Hell, Delhi got its first Puma store just a couple of years ago. We walked along Mahatma Gandhi Marg, which 2 years ago was converted into a pedestrian only walk way and is wider then most roads in Delhi (I exaggerate but it was obviously a double lane two way road before). There are benches and flower pots that run along the middle and stores, restaurants, etc… along the sides. It’s soooo lovely!!!

And guess what we found here? POSTCARDS!!! Beautiful, big, postcards. And what else did we find? Celebrations full force for World AIDS Day, December 1st. Apparently they started about 2 or 3 years ago. There was a booth at MG Marg, with a wall to sign, red ribbons being given out, informational pamphlets for distribution, and the schedule of events for Dec. 1st including a walk through town finishing with a rock concert! (Rock is big in the Northeast) Young men and women were all over it and as we walked along we crossed paths with many proudly wearing their red ribbons. When we got back to our hotel for a snack, the manager showed me his two red ribbons and bunch of pamphlets. I was very impressed!

One big BUT… it’s dam cold at night here! It’s chilly during the day, unless you are walking or staring at the sun, but at night… BBBBRRRRR. And I don’t fare well in the cold, I so don’t. I was in an incubator as a baby after being born because my body temperature was too low and I really don’t think it ever adjusted fully. On the other hand, I guess this is good practice for our time in Nepal, next week (what was I thinking when I agreed to that?). When we left Gangtok and headed 4 hours West to stay at Pelling for a few days, we started to wear our gloves even during the day! And Nisarga wore his hat at all times… to sleep, to go to the bathroom, throughout the day! I even bought a hat with fleece lining. Did I mention BBRRRRRR? Yes! BBBBRRRRRR. Our noses were permanently red and frozen.

The weather, and the travel I suppose, took its toll on our health a bit. While my diarrhoea stopped once I started eating meat (I always had faith pork and chicken would help not hurt me!), my runny nose, cough and phlegm filled chest is on its second week. Nisarga went through almost 2 days of fasting, but two days later he was up for a couple of hours vomiting and shitting everything out. During our three days in Pelling I stuck to one meal per day consisting of chicken noodle soup and cheese momos (dumplings), and after his long night in the bathroom Nisarga stuck to porridge, butter toast and bananas.

Another first during this trip was Nisarga experiencing an earthquake. Not a grand scale one, but the unmistaken feeling of the earth shaking beneath your feet and moving along with it everything around you was definitely there. Having experienced these soft earthquakes in Lima and Delhi (when the epicentre was Kashmir!) I knew right away but he was confused and baffled. By the time we got to the door and opened it, it was all over, and he asked the people from the hotel about it and they said it was normal. Tremors continued, another 3 or 4, throughout the day… sending us in a state of alarm and tension each time. I suppose since the Himalayas are still growing… maybe that was just them stretching a bit. A bit nerve wrecking however given that these constructions don’t seem so dependable, and that the Northeast (although not Sikkim) is known for its civil unrest and bombs and blasts here and there. Aagggg.

for all our pictures from sikkim, go to: http://picasaweb.google.com/nisargaanddeepa/Sikkim#

Friday, November 28, 2008

A Northeast Thanksgiving

After one and a half days of travel we finally made it to Gangtok, Sikkim’s capital. As in we took an autorickshaw to the town from the Satra, from there a shared jeep ride to the ferry, then the ferry from Majuli island to the mainland (the experience of which was much more peaceful the second time around), then a shared jeep ride to the town, then an all day bus ride back to Guwahati. The bus broke down before reaching the final destination, although not too far, so we all disembarked in the dark (it was only 6pm), and started walking. We got on a local bus which took us where we could take another local bus to the bus station. We had a quick dinner and go on the overnight train to northern West Bengal. This was the first time that Nisarga was travelling third class sleeper non-AC, and my first time in 4 years, so basically we were under the impression we’d get sheets and a pillow… but nope! Everyone around us started unpacking their bedspreads and whatnot and … well… we added a few layers on and were grateful that we were exhausted so that we were bound to get some sleep at least. Nisarga was smart enough to bring along earplugs, because the orchestra of snoring was incredible!!! My ipod earphones were the best I could come up with. From the train station we took a jeep share 5 hours north into Gangtok, and finally a taxi into the city and a hotel where we could set our weary bones for a couple of nights. (In the pictures, that's Nisarga on the top bunk with his beige hat on.)

Actually, we dropped off our bags, washed our faces and brushed our teeth, and headed out for Thanksgiving lunch! Although this was the calendar day after Thanksgiving (the day set aside to give thanks for what you have, an official holiday in the US, based on the fairytale story that the pilgrims sat and broke bread on that day with the Native Americans and everyone lived happily ever after together – instead of the Native Americans all being killed off or put into conservation camps… but that’s another blog entry on the efforts to create a false common “American” identity when everyone’s roots are from somewhere else), we were starving and I wanted to celebrate Thanksgiving with the only family I’ve got by my side: Nisarga! So we stumbled into a really nice restaurant with a marvellous view of the highest Himalayan peak in India, ordered yummy food and said what we were grateful for! I ordered pork. Then we went to a café and had chocolate balls, sitting next to a Christmas tree listening to Western Music. It was such a treat!!! In the US, since the family tends to get together during Thanksgiving, it is also often the time the Christmas tree goes up and is decorated. The welcome platoon of poinsettas along the road and the giving thanks and now the café setting that could be anywhere in the US or Europe… it really feels like Christmas and that the end of the year is coming. I don’t think I have felt that in over 5 years, since the last time I was in the US at this time. With perfect timing, Nisarga’s mom and dad both called while we were at the café… as if to share in the family moment with us (actually they were worried about us due to the Bombay terrorist attacks but still, great timing!).

That was our Sikkim Thanksgiving! Thank you!!!

Thursday, November 27, 2008

we are fine!!

we just got back to civilization and heard about the bombings. we have called our mothers on skype, and now letting you all know that all is well on our side. we are going to read now about what the hell happened there. thank you all who wrote and asked if we are ok. lots of love!!

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Majuli Island

If my memory serves me right this is the first time I am riding on local busses in India. I realized on this trip just how cushioned my travel has been up until now. Sure I have been to rural places, very rural, but I have gone for work and I have been met there by locals working in the area and they have ensured I get from A to B comfortably and without any effort on my part. And when I have travelled with friends or family (I’ve only travelled in India alone twice) we have either gone to one place and either flew or took the train in and out, or we have hired a car for several days and explored different towns or the countryside that way. And the car is not only more convenient, it acts as a protective bubble of sorts; it is like a safety blanket. You don’t have to ride along with strangers, locals, end up dusty or sweaty unless you want to. You stop wherever you want, leave whenever you want. You inevitably distance yourself.

So here we were… mingling! We rode through seemingly endless tea plantations, and gold, yellow and emerald rice fields. Hazy blue mountains across the horizon. It’s really quite beautiful out here. Just over two hours later we were in a large town with traffic jams and pollution. 45 auto-rickshaw minutes later and we were at the “pier”, a windswept sandbank from where the over-over-over-crowded ferries for Majuli Island depart. My biggest concern… we don’t have enough toilet paper to last us until we get back to Guwahati… .the last time I noticed seeing toilet paper! Now I may have lived in India for 5 years, and I may have become Indianized in some ways… but my butt is still Western. Ok, time to ration the TP (toilet paper)! But my nose is still running profusely from my cold. Aaaauuuuuuuuuggggggg

We board the ferry but decide we want to ride on the roof instead, as we see some people standing up there, in the open air. Yes, bright idea… at the time. We see a few boxes up there and some cargo and a few guys playing cards... No problem. We whip out the yoga mat and place our backpacks so that we can comfortably lean against them. Within 30 minutes however, the roof is full with cargo and 6 motorcycles, not to mention the dozens of men staring at us like “what the hell are you doing up here?” Clearly this is not the regular seating area for white folk, once in the blue moon when they actually come this way, and definitely not where a lady should be. We laugh and enjoy the breeze and sunrays that manage to poke through the spaces between the parcels and boxes and bags filled with chilli.

Majuli island is situated in the Brahmaputra River, and it is considered the world’s largest river island. It is filled with rice fields and fish traps in water meadows, and the local tribe is called the “Missing” people. Majuli is also home to 22 ancient satras, monasteries of neo-Vaishnavism and centres of learning, art and culture. This faith was formulated by 15th Century Assamese philosopher Sankardev, and it eschews the caste system and idol worship, and focuses on Vishnu as God especially in his Krishna incarnation. Most worship is expressed through dance and music, and dramatic plays from the Bhagavad Gita and Krishna’s life are performed.

We decide to stay at one of the satras, and pick the nearest one (of the two mentioned in our travel bible, The Lonely Planet) from where we are dropped off after our ferry ride. And who do we meet as we are walking in? Another Polack!!! Nisarga has only met one other Polish person since February in India, a woman at Osho, and on this river island in this satra guest house, tucked away in the far north east corner of this subcontinent, he runs into the second. Antek tells us about the festivals and the way of life and his experiences over the past 2 weeks staying here. He is hoping to have enough good pictures after his stay at Majuli for some kind of photo exhibit.

So according to him, the satra whose guest house we are staying at is a smaller satra, with only about 100 monks living there. They do not cut their hair after a certain age (but they can shave), although at other satras monks do cut their hair. They wear white loungies (like a wrap) in the form of pants always, even young monks who go to school. People come and leave their sons to be raised here in this faith, like at Buddhist monasteries. Unlike Buddhist monasteries, the kids go to regular school with the village kids, and they are given extra lessons on philosophy, theology, dance and music at the satra. As adults they can pursue worldly livelihoods, like running a book shop, a printing press, or whatever they wish. But they can not eat outside the satra, they must bathe each and every time before eating, they can not eat anything that is not prepared by themselves or within the satra (unless it’s natural like fruit), and they should not touch or be touched by others, accept anything touched by others or give something directly to others (but if this happens they should bathe). If as adults they decide to leave the satra because they want to marry and have families, or for any other reason, they are free to do so. There is even one satra where married monks live with their families. There is a certain femininity about many of the satra monks, a lightness, gentleness and gracefulness. Even among the kids.

We woke up just after 5 with the birds and other creatures of nature eager to have us join them in welcoming in the rising sun. Mist covered the fields and the Missing people were beginning their day. We walked around the village surrounding the satra guest house for about an hour. It was soothing and lovely. However, Nisarga was feeling unwell, weak and with a stomach ache. I had diarrhoea. All that food exploration over the past 4 days took its toll on our stomachs I suppose. So we returned for herbal tea and further sleep. It was a mostly lazy day. Walking in the village again in the middle of the day, loudly followed from a safe distance by young school kids. Walking into the nearest town for a light late lunch, closely followed by dust. Now I have to say, I am absolutely amazed at the far reach of the dish TV in Assam! It is absolutely incredible. In what would otherwise be considered bamboo shacks on stilts you find Dish TV outside!

Also, one quick point about the satra guest house we are staying in. Its basic but clean and safe and just fine. And there is no running water. To flush, wash, or do anything that involves water, we pump water out of the ground into plastic buckets which have turned a shade of orangey brown, from the colour of the water coming up though the red earth below. I have stayed without out running water before, in Bolivia and Peru, but not so often and not in a long time I must admit. (We do have electricity however, hence these blog entries, thankfully.) As Nisarga puts it, the water smells like it has every possible mineral in it. At the guest house, there is a couple from Denmark, Antek, and us.

Unfortunately we will not be able to go to Arunachal Pradesh or Nagaland, the two states we had settled on for our second week up here in the Northeast, because foreigners need a government permit to enter these states and the process time takes between 1-3 weeks we are told. We accept our reality (and the festivals we will miss as a result, which is why this trip was planned for now), vow to return one day with said permits already processed, and several rolls of toilet paper, and opt to head over to Sikkim for the second week instead since we can get the permits necessary at the border when we cross it (so we are told anyway).

One extremely interesting thing, at least to us, about Assam: No Postcards Anywhere! Not in the capital, not at Kaziranga, and certainly not at Majuli. And those are the three highlights of the state. So we can safely say there is a state in India where you can not get postcards! Now you know we are really way out there!!! Not even those taken in the 70s or 80s that are faded. None.

So off we go again… in reverse: an autorickshaw to the near by town at 630am, a shared jeep to the “pier”, the ferry from Majuli island to the mainland (an experience which was much more peaceful this time), a shared ride to the traffic jammed and polluted town of Jorgat, and an all day bus ride back to Guwahati. There were no seats available on the only direct bus going to Guwahati so we sat up front just behind the driver… which was actually perfect for seeing the beauty of the country side we past. In fact, as we were passing Kaziranga, the driver pointed to our right and there was a rhino!!! In plain sight, very visible on the low grass, and not far off at all! Amazing. What a lovely “see you next time” from Kaziranga. Apparently goats are a real traffic problem; during this 8 hour ride I saw several just dash out of nowhere and cross the road and our poor driver trying not to hit them. As a side note, how great it was to see Nisarga in action, getting us on that bus and situated… I was very impressed!

Monday, November 24, 2008

Kaziranga

It’s fitting I suppose, that the same person who told me about the vipassana center in Igatpuri, where I had my first silent sitting retreat, is also the first and only person to have mentioned to me Kaziranga! That was 3 years ago last month, and I have wanted to come here ever since. But the northeast always seemed so far, in need of a chunk of time in order to explore, and intimidating due to the government permits necessary for foreigners to travel around some parts of this region. Still, Rajesh’s interest for this place stayed with me.

And so here we are… I’ve managed to drag Nisarga all the way up here to a place in the world he had never considered visiting or even heard of before. And we are somewhere really foreign to us in comparison to what we are used to. We have never seen any pictures from here, no one I know except for Rajesh has ever been here, and the travel guide is rather lean when it comes to this region. The planner in me feels soooo unprepared… the controlling self in me feels starved.

After a 5 hour bus ride we reach Kaziranga, at 430pm just before it gets dark. A wide path with tea plantations stretching out on either side welcomes us. We settle into a lodge with a huge beautiful tree out front, the last room on the east corner of the furthest annex … perfect! This place looks like it used to be something built and used by the British about a century ago. There is a little stream that runs through the forest just beyond our room. The stars are shining bright. We’re happy. Nisarga is in love with the vibrations of this place, and I’m excited to finally be living this.

Kaziranga is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it covers an area of 430 sq.km comprising of forest, elephant grass, marshes and shallow pools. It is home to over two thirds of the world’s one-horned rhinos. There are about 1,800 or so rhinos at Khaziranga, up from just 200 in 1904.

We went for an elephant ride safari in the Kaziranga National Park (KNP). This was a big day… Nisarga’s first elephant ride ever. Instead of taking a car we walked the 3km to the KNP entrance gate. We headed out just after 530am. There was a thick layer of mist covering everything. The birds on alarm duty announcing the start of yet another day, the sun slowly creeping up behind the bamboo, and the villagers beginning their morning routines. There are 5 elephants on this ride and ours is the one with the gunman escort… who has a good eye for spotting rhinos.

One hour and 2,500 rupees later (just over US$50) we have seen 4 rhinos, wild boar, buffalo, so many deer, pelicans and storks, among other things. And it was so effortless, the animals in such abundance and so close, I felt like I was in an interactive open air zoo or something like that. Incredible! Best safari outside of Africa I’ve been on. We relaxed in the middle of the day and went back for an afternoon jeep safari. Obviously we saw animals from a further distance, but on this trip we got to appreciate the different landscapes of the park. And a lovely and romantic sunset!

In the morning we are greeted by the sun rising through our windows. We go out to the veranda and have herbal tea. We spend time doing yoga, breathing exercises, sun bathing, and reading. Then it’s time to say goodbye to this peaceful and tranquil place. Nisarga doesn’t want to go, and we consider staying but the bus comes just in time and we are on our way again.

We agree to return to Kaziranga sometime before we leave India, for at least a week, and just be. We take with us beautiful memories and pictures, and a bunch of bananas which are delightfully sweet and have seeds like small stones or pebbles throughout them (kinda freaky!).

Nisarga also tried his first beetle nut pan here… we won’t be repeating that experience though (beetle nut, a green leaf, some white gunk which serves as the stimulant, some burning and a whole bunch of numbness of the mouth and tongue after chewing and sucking on this highly addictive concoction which turns your teeth and mouth red and results in endless amounts of red saliva to be spat out).

PS: there are some lovely pix from kaziranga on the assam picassa album.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Guwahati

Twenty hours after we set off from Osho-Nisarga we reached Guwahati, the capital of Assam (a state in the northeast part of India – a map will be posted soon). This involved an overnight 12 hour bus ride from Dharamsala to Delhi, and a 3 hour flight from Delhi north east to Guwahati.

We expected the weather to be about the same or colder then what we experienced in Dharamsala but to our pleasant surprise it is warm here! In fact we landed to a wonderful 28C, total t-shirt weather. The evenings get cooler, but a light sweater or just a long-sleeve is fine. We were sooo relieved!!! As we quickly shed a few layers in the cab ride into town, we noticed that the countryside was filled with palm and banana trees, sprinkled with tall bamboo, and was thoroughly lush and green with a strong red coloured earth. Beautiful and inviting. However, we are so far east that the sun keeps a noticeably different schedule. It is pitch dark by 5pm and the sun starts rising just after 515am.

Guwahati as a town is actually on the uglier side; concrete buildings with lots of open sewer canals. But it provided a wonderful first for me… the opportunity to walk around for hours! In the 5 years I have lived in India I have never spent hours walking around, going everywhere I aimed to go on foot and not getting in any kind of transport all day. Even the flyovers had sidewalks – we went over 2 of them! It is interesting to see how many goods here are carried on people’s shoulder using a balance kind of system, as in a bamboo stick across the shoulder and two baskets hung on either side with the goods… I haven’t seen that in other parts of India, reminds me of Southeast Asia in fact. As do the vegetable markets on the sides of the flyovers, and the human drawn wheeled carriages carrying passengers short distances.

Guwahati is situated on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra river, and when we approached the bank we found earth that looked like a cracked desert of grey clay. Nisarga was convinced he was going to sink through.

As we walked we stopped here and there and tried something being sold or prepared by the roadside, like coconut, starfruit, cane juice, or a piece of fried river fish. I loved watching Nisarga curiously try all kinds of street food things, the same man with whom 6-months ago I was drinking wine and eating cheese, and sunbathing on the beaches of Nice. Bless him!

Guwahati also provided Nisarga with something he absolutely loves: fresh fruit juice! A guy on the corner of the road, there from 6am until 10pm, with a few fruits and a manual juicer; no water or sugar added, just pure juice. Nisarga was in heaven. He swore he could live here just for this. We went to him in the morning and the evening, filling up our one litre water bottles each time. 60 rupees to fill up a one-litre bottle, that’s less than 1 euro. It really was heavenly!!!

Another interesting thing about being here is that we did not see another foreign looking face except when we went for dinner. Walking around out and about all day, and we didn’t bump into another foreign tourist. And since most tourists not travelling with package tours use the same travel bible, the lonely planet travel guide, we tend to end up at the same places – especially when there are just a few restaurants listed/ recommended for the whole city.

This is the first time I am somewhere in India I have not been before, in well over a year. And it is also the first time that Nisarga and I are travelling around in India together (so far we have been based in Mcleodganj, and we travelled around Spain together but not in India). And it is the first time I will be travelling around a state and region without the comfort of a hired car and driver; this has always been the case when I travelled for work, with my family when they came to visit, and with friends when we have travelled in a group. Needless to say my first two days in Guwahati I was a bit tense; my reaction to the unknown and to the unsure. But by the time we got our bus tickets to Kaziranga, and our next bottle of fresh orange, pineapple and pomegranate juice, I was feeling much more at ease.

for all our pictures from assam, go to: http://picasaweb.google.com/nisargaanddeepa/Assam#

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Home-free!!!

I’m not going to be so dramatic as to say that now I’m homeless, I’m just home-free! What I would not have even considered 7 months ago is now my reality. I moved out of my home. No, I am not moving into a different apartment, I am not moving to any other place. I will continue to spend about 9 months in India and the summers in Europe, for the next two years, and then move onto SouthEast Asia (at least that’s the rough plan)… and have no base in the meantime.


It took 5 long solid days of not leaving the house (not even to go downstairs), lots of sorting, trashing, giving some things away, selling things, piles upon piles and more piles, and so much dust I might have permanently damaged my lungs. This included going through boxes (3 of them!) which had been shipped from NYC when I first moved to Delhi almost 5 years ago… and had never been opened! But it’s done! All my crap is packed and stored: 20 some boxes of books, decorations, dvds, cds, shoes, and papers; 7 luggage of clothes, purses, and accessories; and a bread maker, a glass and teakwood low table, and a mirror which was the first mosaic piece I ever made. Those are all my worldly belongings! (I travel light no?) And its all in my friend Anita’s mother’s basement! I will go from time to time, probably about 4 times per year, to change sets of clothes and shoes or whatever. And I suspect this will be their home (not mine), for the next 3 years… until I am ready to have a base again (ie: until I’m almost broke and need to get a job!).


And so yesterday a new chapter began for me. Delhi had been “home” to me since December 2003. Initially she was supposed to host me for just 2 years, that was the duration of the work contract I signed. And it took about 9 months for me to actually accept Delhi as home. I was miserable my first year, counting down the days until I would be able to leave, feeling like I was constantly drowning. My second year was better but I still felt like I was treading water, just staying afloat. By the end of my second year, when there was the possibility to extend my contract, I felt like I had made such a huge investment in terms of time and effort and it was finally paying off, why not stay a bit longer. My third year I was actually enjoying Delhi and India very much. And by the fourth year I had decided to quit my job and not spend as much time in Delhi but definitely stay in India. Still, this city which I fought against, hated, and bitched about so much earlier on, had become my safety net. My security blanket.


So now, as I am finishing my 5th year in India, it was time to let go of that too… and in many ways honour what Mother India has tried to teach me. To accept change, to try to flow a bit more and fight a little less, to love more and cling less. As I sat outside on the terrace around sunset the day before leaving I looked around me peacefully, in the process of letting go of the emotional investment I have put into this oasis and the subsequent attachment. The plants had grown so much since I last saw them before the monsoon, new buds were sprouting, and they were all doing just fine without me. The cow bells which were hung up just over half a year ago were rusted and their red rope faded. The birds flew above in packs heading home to their respective trees the way they always do at that hour of the day. The teeny weeny but numerous ant army went marching on from who knows where or to. In that moment, I could clearly see the law of nature that Mother India has consistently shown me, within me and all around me: birth/ life/ new beginnings, routine/ patterns/ habits, change, decay… cycles. And so it is with me, as I enter this phase of this cycle. According to my astrological chart, during this 7 year cycle of my life (lasting another 2 years, until I’m 35) I am meant to push my boundaries and break my pattern habits. Cheers to that!


And as I do that space is freed up for something different, change, even new beginnings. Two days before the movers came I got a call from my father, which in itself is shocking; we spent the first 3 years I was living in India on absolute non-speaking terms… this was probably the 2nd time he has called since we started speaking again. He was in a great mood, and we had a pleasant conversation, even laughing together. That same day I spoke to my brother and he had great news: he got a job after several months of not having one and he has his ticket to Japan where he is going to ask for his lady’s hand in marriage! Mom is planning her 65th birthday celebration, her and a bunch of girlfriends salsa dancing the night away, and she's dam excited to claim social security and medicare benefits now that she is officially going to be a senior citizen. After the movers came I made a mad dash for the bus and landed up in Mcleodganj the next morning, a day ahead of what Nisarga was expecting; he was so surprised! We talked, cuddled, had a bottle of Spanish wine (we had been saving from our summer trip) over a delicious lunch on the balcony, and slipped back into each others bodies, hearts and energies. Nisarga is in fact the source of inspiration for this new level of freedom I’m entering. My life is absolutely beautiful! It always has been and always is, I know, but right now I’m actually aware of it, I feel it, and I’m so grateful!!!


And I’m grateful to all my friends and family (and even friends of friends), throughout the world, who continue to open their homes and hearts to me. Thank you all for your support, and for reading this far.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

india loves obama!!!

you must check this out!!!

http://in.youtube.com/watch?v=sA-451XMsuY

(yes, i should be packing!!!)

still in shock, still emotional!

i still can't believe it. i mean i know it, i've even celebrated it, but i still just can't believe it.

last night i met up with some other american friends and friends of friends for meat and fries (this is india, i think this is the 3rd time i've eaten cow in 5 years while i've been here!). we criticized some of the media comments, we were petty about michelle obama's dress, we compared how we felt, how our parents felt and how early we woke up. then we went to the democrats abroad event to celebrate. we heard a few speeches from the organizers, and from the two young women who were obama campaign volunteers responsible for india and nepal. there was a funny video with obama images merged with indian images and sounds (i'm trying to get the link to that).

and then a teacher from the american school got up on stage and started playing his guitar and singing songs, wrapping up with "we shall overcome". and people were holding hands, singing loudly, and swaying back and forth. of course i started to cry again. and i wasn't the only one! he prefaced the song by saying "it might be 40 years later, but it's appropriate today!" we watched obama's acceptance speech again, watched as oprah, who picked cotton in the fields when she was young, and jesse jackson cried and rejoiced, and continued dancing... knowing the world felt like such a different place today then it did just the day before. there was a book to sign, which the volunteers will make sure reaches obama and many of us tried to put into words our feelings.

later on the night i met one of the volunteers mentioned earlier, a white young energetic woman. she asked me how i had found out about the celebration party. i told her "i'm a democrat, so i got the email". she looked at me with surprise and said, "oh, so you are an american citizen?"... so yes, for all my crying and shock i do understand that not much changes over night, and that obama is inheriting one of the worst realities the US has ever experienced.

nevertheless, when i woke up and i read the below article from the nytimes, again, i started to cry... the US HAS come a long way in 47 years! i'm so excited, so happy, so proud, and so amazed.

PS: i forgot to mention yesterday that on the news coverage of the elections, the indian news showed that there were pujas (prayers) being done in a couple of temples in the south in honor of obama, and and that his astrological chart had been read and it was declared that he was sure to win! i love it!!!!


http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/05/us/politics/05civil.html?pagewanted=1&partner=rssnyt&emc=rss

November 5, 2008
The Moment

A Time to Reap for Foot Soldiers of Civil Rights

ALBANY, Ga. — Rutha Mae Harris backed her silver Town Car out of the driveway early Tuesday morning, pointed it toward her polling place on Mercer Avenue and started to sing.

“I’m going to vote like the spirit say vote,” Miss Harris chanted softly.

I’m going to vote like the spirit say vote,

I’m going to vote like the spirit say vote,

And if the spirit say vote I’m going to vote,

Oh Lord, I’m going to vote when the spirit say vote.

As a 21-year-old student (on right in photo), she had bellowed that same freedom song at mass meetings at Mount Zion Baptist Church back in 1961, the year Barack Obama was born in Hawaii, a universe away. She sang it again while marching on Albany’s City Hall, where she and other black students demanded the right to vote, and in the cramped and filthy cells of the city jail, which the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. described as the worst he ever inhabited.

For those like Miss Harris who withstood jailings and beatings and threats to their livelihoods, all because they wanted to vote, the short drive to the polls on Tuesday culminated a lifelong journey from a time that is at once unrecognizable and eerily familiar here in southwest Georgia. As they exited the voting booths, some in wheelchairs, others with canes, these foot soldiers of the civil rights movement could not suppress either their jubilation or their astonishment at having voted for an African-American for president of the United States.

“They didn’t give us our mule and our acre, but things are better,” Miss Harris, 67, said with a gratified smile. “It’s time to reap some of the harvest.”

When Miss Harris arrived at the city gymnasium where she votes, her 80-year-old friend Mamie L. Nelson greeted her with a hug. “We marched, we sang and now it’s happening,” Ms. Nelson said. “It’s really a feeling I cannot describe.”

Many, like the Rev. Horace C. Boyd, who was then and is now pastor of Shiloh Baptist Church, viewed the moment through the prism of biblical prophecy. If Dr. King was the movement’s Moses, doomed to die without crossing the Jordan, it would fall to Mr. Obama to be its Joshua, they said.

“King made the statement that he viewed the Promised Land, won’t get there, but somebody will get there, and that day has dawned,” said Mr. Boyd, 81, who pushed his wife in a wheelchair to the polls late Tuesday morning. “I’m glad that it has.”

It was a day most never imagined that they would live to see. From their vantage point amid the cotton fields and pecan groves of Dougherty County, where the movement for voting rights faced some of its most determined resistance, the country simply did not seem ready.

Yes, the world had changed in 47 years. At City Hall, the offices once occupied by the segregationist mayor, Asa D. Kelley Jr., and the police chief, Laurie Pritchett, are now filled by Mayor Willie Adams and Chief James Younger, both of whom are black. But much in this black-majority city of 75,000 also seems the same: neighborhoods remain starkly delineated by race, blacks are still five times more likely than whites to live in poverty and the public schools have so resegregated that 9 of every 10 students are black.

Miss Harris, a retired special education teacher who was jailed three times in 1961 and 1962, was so convinced that Mr. Obama could not win white support that she backed Senator Hillary Rodham Clinton in the primaries. “I just didn’t feel it was time for a black man, to be honest,” she said. “But the Lord has revealed to me that it is time for a change.”

Late Tuesday night, when the networks declared Mr. Obama the winner, Miss Harris could not hold back the tears, the emotions of a lifetime released in a flood. She shared a lengthy embrace with friends gathered at the Obama headquarters, and then led the exultant crowd in song.

“Glory, glory, hallelujah,” she sang. After a prayer, she joined the crowd in chanting, “Yes, we did!”

Among the things Miss Harris appreciates about Mr. Obama is that even though he was in diapers while she was in jail, he seems to respect what came before. “He’s of a different time and place, but he knows whose shoulders he’s standing on,” she said.

When the movement came to Albany in 1961, fewer than 100 of Dougherty County’s 20,000 black residents were registered to vote, said the Rev. Charles M. Sherrod, one of the first field workers sent here by the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee. Literacy tests made a mockery of due process — Mr. Boyd remembers being asked by a registrar how many bubbles were in a bar of soap — and bosses made it clear to black workers that registration might be incompatible with continued employment.

Lucius Holloway Sr., 76, said he lost his job as a post office custodian after he began registering voters in neighboring Terrell County. He said he was shunned by other blacks who hated him for the trouble he incited.

Now Mr. Holloway is a member of the county commission, and when he voted for Mr. Obama last week he said his pride was overwhelming. “Thank you, Jesus, I lived to see the fruit of my labor,” he said.

The Albany movement spread with frenzied abandon after the arrival of Mr. Sherrod and other voting-rights organizers, and Dr. King devoted nearly a year to the effort. The protests became known for the exuberant songs that Miss Harris and others adapted from Negro spirituals. (She would go on to become one of the Freedom Singers, a group that traveled the country as heralds for the civil rights movement.) In the jails, the music helped while away time and soothe the soul, just as they had in the fields a century before.

But the movement met its match in Albany’s recalcitrant white leaders, who filled the jails with demonstrators while avoiding the kind of violence that drew media outrage and federal intervention in other civil rights battlegrounds. The energy gradually drained from the protests, and Dr. King moved on to Birmingham, counting Albany as a tactical failure.

Mr. Sherrod, 71, who settled in Albany and continues to lead a civil rights group here, argues that the movement succeeded; it simply took time. He said he felt the weight of that history when he voted last Thursday morning, after receiving radiation treatment for his prostate cancer. He thought of the hundreds of mass meetings, of the songs of hope and the sermons of deliverance. “This is what we prayed for, this is what we worked for,” he said. “We have a legitimate chance to be a democracy.”

Over and again, the civil rights veterans drew direct lines between their work and the colorblindness of Mr. Obama’s candidacy. But they emphasized that they did not vote for him simply because of his race.

“I think he would make just as good a president as any one of those whites ever made, that’s what I think about it,” said 103-year-old Daisy Newsome, who knocked on doors to register voters “until my hand was sore,” and was jailed in 1961 during a march that started at Mount Zion Baptist. “It ain’t because he’s black, because I’ve voted for the whites.” She added, “I know he can’t be no worse than what there’s done been.”

Mount Zion has now been preserved as a landmark, attached to a new $4 million civil rights museum that was financed through a voter-approved sales tax increase. Across the street, Shiloh Baptist, founded in 1888, still holds services in the sanctuary where Dr. King preached at mass meetings.

Among those leading Sunday’s worship was the associate pastor, Henry L. Mathis, 53, a former city commissioner whose grandmother was a movement stalwart. He could not let the moment pass without looking back.

“We are standing on Jordan’s stony banks, and we’re casting a wishful eye to Canaan’s fair and happy land,” Mr. Mathis preached. “We sang through the years that we shall overcome, but our Father, our God, we pray now that you show that we have overcome.”

a black man in the white house

yes they did, yes we did... and i'm still in shock

i have been up since 515am delhi time watching, flipping between channels (thank you anita for that wake up call!). biting my fingers, trembling, crying, screaming, in shock, proud, grateful to be alive to see this day, grateful for all those who have come before to pave the way for this day to even just be possible, speachless. mom called (she told me she had plenty of calling cards in hand to last as long as it would take to declare him the winner) and we tried to watch the same channel over the phone together but gave up and decided to talk after the acceptance speech. during those 5 hours or so, sitting alone in the living room of my soon to be ex-home in south delhi, i felt so connected, so united with what i was watching. everything i was feeling i could see in the faces of those waiting for the results or interviewed, in churches, times square, grant park, harlem, and the several expat get togethers across india.

i felt swept in this wave of yes we can, of believing that everything is possible, feeling like i and other individuals like me could actually make a difference, but at the same time so in shock that this was actually happening because i still couldn't believe that it could be... that the US could actually elect a black man to represent them and to lead them. and then it was official, california tipped the count over 270 and the race was over. and the shock is still with me so many hours later.

the voting rights act was passed in 1965, and as a result, just within a few months a quarter of a million new black voters were registered. within 4 years the south doubled its number of registered voters overall. and a little over 40 years later, as a result of this race, of this candidate and this campaign, we had a surge in registration of new voters, especially those 18-24 years of age, and the highest voter turn out in all of US history. and over 70% of new voters voted for obama. people actually started to care again, they felt their vote actually mattered. and in a country where the last two elections have been a disgrace to democracy, that says A LOT! people actually felt like they mattered. they weren't a blue state (so why bother voting), or a red state (so why bother voting). they were people... with a lot at stake... and something to do about it! and obama wasn't color blind assuming red can only be red. he spent 70% of his budget, a very large budget, on reaching out to people in traditionally republican states!

when i spoke to my mother i understood just how far my own family had come in a generation. following up on what i wrote yesterday, there is this black-brown divide that exists in the US, as in elsewhere except that in the US EVERYONE is or came from an immigrant except for the native americans. so in an effort to feel better, higher, more important, more valid then someone else, in a system which often leaves you feeling disempowered if you are a racial or ethnic minority, brown skin folk tend to put themselves above black skinned folk. that is to say, since the whites look down on browns, they in turn look down on someone (lest they be at the bottom), so they look down on blacks. (btw, you see the same violence happen with domestic abuse, dad hits mom, mom hits kids, kid abuses the younger kid, youngest kid abuses the pet or kids in school.) this type of racism is very common within the latino communities in the US, as well as back in their own countries.

this explains the hidden racism i described in yesterday's blog, which my mother felt when i told her i was dating a black man. when she said "stick to your own kind" she meant either date brown, or at least move up and date white... but don't move down for god's sake! out of her love for me she worked through that and it's been a non issue since i was a teenager. her sisters however, have not followed suit... perhaps because they didn't have to, they weren't confronted with their child dating a black person. nevertheless, both of my aunts were encouraged, and convinced, to go vote by their sons today... being told specifically that they should vote their conscious not their racism. in fact, according to statistics from across the nation, the brown-black divide narrowed today, and the majority of registered hispanic voters voted for obama.

i honestly don't think i have ever felt prouder to be an american then i do today. a bit more than a decade ago i used to remind those who would bash the US with wide brush strokes that "only in america", as they say, are there so many opportunities for people to really move up the ladder. i gave myself as an example. in how many countries in the world (certainly not only the US but also not many) can a woman with a third grade education, who immigrates as a nanny, end up being the owner of her own business? in how many countries can the daughter of two immigrants, neither of whom even made it to high school, end up a fullbright scholar, get two masters from an ivy league school, and work as a diplomat for the UN? as obama has reminded us numerous times, only in the US is his story, my story, my mother's story, and so many others' stories, even possible! and today, i remember that feeling which i lost a decade ago somewhere along the way... not in my mind, but in my heart, in my being. i am so grateful to the US for the opportunities it has given me... including the intellectual capacity and the freedom to critique it. (yes noah, i am willing to come back now)

and i must say, a few of my indian and european friends have shared with me that they too were glued to their tvs, especially for his speech, and that they felt excited, cried, got goosebumps, were full of joy and hope, etc. and they are shocked because they aren't american. this is a historic event, not only for african americans. as exemplified by jesse jackson weeping while he waited for obama to come and make his speech; he who had marched along martin luther king in the civil rights movement, and who unsuccessfully ran for president twice in the 1980s, looked to me like he was saying inside "way to go kid, you did what we have only dreamed of." and as oprah said in one of her comments, we don't have to only dream anymore. i don't think it's too dramatic to say that today redefines how americans see themselves, and how the world sees americans.

now i gotta go and get in the shower and go to the US embassy restaurant for burgers and fries, and then on to a celebration organized by the democrats abroad at a local club. to get into the us embassy complex, where the restaurant is, you have to be a member of the restaurant, or be with someone who is. i'm not one but a couple of friends are. and as i was coordinating who i would have to call to be accompanied in, i realized that right now, this moment, i feel that i look more american than ever before. the question of where am i from is most often followed by white americans asking "but where are your parents from" or "but what's your ethnic background?" and from non-americans "but were you born there?" (as if any woman who gives birth in a US hospital gets a baby in return who is blond and blue eyed no matter what!)... basically both let me know that i don't "look" american to them, so am i really american? well, today, these questions don't apply as much any more... to me and so many others. and i'm surprised at myself, of how much it makes a difference, an immediate difference, to see someone who looks more like me then not like me, representing the country i am from.

now lets see what happens with the segregation in the barber shops and sunday mornings. btw, mom's shop is not in some rural area, or even the suburbs... it's on K street, a few blocks away from the white house, and her customers include members of the bush administration, including a cabinet secretary (which is like a minister or head of a department) and strategists and speech writers, etc., world bank and regional bank employees, and tons of lawyers. so lets see what reactions are shared there now... next to the "other" (black) barber chair.

filled with joy and gratitude and awe!!!

thank you for reading! go celebrate!!!!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

guess who's coming to dinner...

this is a reference to a hollywood movie from the 60's regarding how open minded self identified liberals really feel, when they are faced with their white daughter wanting to marry a black man. it's also the title of an opinion piece published 2 days ago in the new york times by frank rich. it's already afternoon on nov 4th in india, but back in the US people are just waking up on the East Coast and still well asleep on the West Coast. The polls open in about an hour or so, and then history will continue to be made, no matter who is declared president by the end of the end of the day (hopefully!).

so what makes me sit down in front of the computer right now, when i "should" be packing (yes, i know), and write something? feelings! pure emotions! after reading the said article, which i've copied and pasted below with the original link in case anyone is interested, i watched a 13 minute video also on the new york times home page reviewing the past 2 years of historic campaigning. and i cried. tears just fell down my cheeks and quite honestly i was surprised at such an emotional response. you see, i haven't kept up with the ins and outs of the campaigning. not when it was between hillary and obama, and not now either. i admit, i had become quite averse to american politics, largely out of disappointment from the last two elections. but i have been insisting that i must be in delhi and in front of a tv today no matter what. and i even voted a month ago from the himalayas by snail mail!

i remember being a teenager, laying on my bed with my mother one saturday morning, and telling her i was dating a black boy and being shocked at her response. she, a bolivian of quechan and aymara parents, who married a white (greek) man, was telling me that mixing was not right, i should stick to my own kind. what was my "own kind" anyway? she, who had shown me the movie guess who's coming to dinner, and imitation of life. she, who when i asked why are some people black or browner (i had never actually seen a black person except on TV until i was 6 and we moved to the US) told me that it's just skin difference and that we are all human beings, all equal, all the same, just look different. i remember mentioning all these points to her that saturday morning, and that i had black friends and that had never been a problem. i remember seeing how difficult it was for her to face her racism, how surprised she was to discover it probably. i said to her, it's ok if my friend so-and-so dates a black man but not me, right? not YOUR daughter. i think she was crying a bit by then, and we both laughed at the hypocrisy. she agreed to respect my decisions of who i wanted to be with, and i agreed to respect the fact that i lived under her roof and that seeing me with a black man made her uncomfortable (ie: no black boyfriend would be ringing the door bell or hanging out at home with me). 4 years later i had another black boyfriend. when she was able to accept him, in essence accepting that a black man can be good enough for her daughter, she did so with all her heart, knowing she had worked through a lot of very deep rooted racism which is often masked in many of us until we are triggered personally. this beautiful woman, my mother, would choose to defend that relationship shortly there after during a group dinner when she first heard the phrase "white trash". she asked what it meant and the reply was "a white woman who dates a black man for example." my mother, loyal and fierce like a tigress defending her cubs, listed out examples of white trash per this definition which included the wives of Sidney Poitier (the star of guess who's coming to dinner) and kofi annan, and of course, her daughter...

and this brings me back to the election. i have been repeatedly surprised and amazed at how many europeans i have spoken to, who have not lived in the US, grossly underestimate what a HUGE deal it is for a black man to even be running for president, for him to still be alive right now (has to be said, sad but true, we do have a history of assassinations), and for him to have a good chance at winning! while slavery was abolished back in the 1860s in the US, on paper at least, separate but equal was the law of our land until 1954... just over 50 years ago. and when obama was born, there were still restrictions on who was qualified to vote - ultimately aimed at keeping blacks from voting (the voting rights act came in 1965)! so that's about 350 years of inequality. and in the 1960s, interracial marriages were still illegal in many states.

the story that has been sold abroad and which has even been attempted to be sold to americans in elementary school, is that the US is a "melting pot!". it's not, it's never been. it's a salad; i'm grateful to the teacher (and i can't remember who it was) who shared with us this more honest perspective some time in high school or college. there are many ingredients, and they all get tossed around together, and some juice or flavor from the tomato will mix in with the cucumber and so forth, but it is certainly no stew! as obama pointed out in his historic speech on race in Pennsylvania, this is especially the case in barber shops and sunday mornings. and oh how true this is!!!

and this brings me back to my mother. she is now the co-owner of a barber shop. and her partner is an african american! and this is really unheard of in the US. her conservative overwhelmingly white older male clientele come to the shop for a conservative hair cut and some peace and rest from the office. there is some talk about politics, economics, their kids, her kids, health, etc., or basic niceties and then silence. his clients come in to talk, to connect, to bond, to feel, to hang out, to dream, to explore. some of her clients have been disturbed by the volume or content of the conversations coming from the "other" barber chair. and after being with her for many years, they simply didn't return. and it is actually like that. while mom and carl share the same lease, plumbing, walls, door, cash register, etc... within the shop they are still separate but equal, segragated. it's still a salad, not a stew! there was a chance to sell the shop for a good price a few months back, when the owner of another shop which was closing down due to the building's remodeling came and enquired if she would sell. she was alone at the time. said that she would have to ask her partner but that probably yes, and declared their asking price. when the guy returned to talk further, he saw carl... and never came back.

so why was i crying during the video from the nytimes? because it is a blessing to witness this reality. because it is truly an amazing thing, that a country which put W bush in office and kept him there for 8 years, could allow themselves to be led and represented by a black man. because, as cliche and touchy feely as it will sound, it does inspire hope in me, it inspires hope in me for the US. not because of what kind of president he would be, although that too of course, but because americans could actually see him for who he is, a competent leader, not just a black man, not just a nigger.

i feel like a kid on christmas eve... excited to stay up all night, watching and listening attentively, awaiting for the morning's big surprise.


November 2, 2008
Op-Ed Columnist

Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner

AND so: just how far have we come?

As a rough gauge last week, I watched a movie I hadn’t seen since it came out when I was a teenager in 1967. Back then “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner” was Hollywood’s idea of a stirring call for racial justice. The premise: A young white woman falls madly in love with a black man while visiting the University of Hawaii and brings him home to San Francisco to get her parents’ blessing. Dad, a crusading newspaper publisher, and Mom, a modern art dealer, are wealthy white liberals — Katharine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy, no less — so surely there can be no problem. Complications ensue before everyone does the right thing.

Though the film was a box-office smash and received 10 Oscar nominations, even four decades ago it was widely ridiculed as dated by liberal critics. The hero, played by the first black Hollywood superstar, Sidney Poitier, was seen as too perfect and too “white” — an impossibly handsome doctor with Johns Hopkins and Yale on his résumé and a Nobel-worthy career fighting tropical diseases in Africa for the World Health Organization. What couple would not want him as a son-in-law? “He’s so calm and sure of everything,” says his fiancée. “He doesn’t have any tensions in him.” She is confident that every single one of their biracial children will grow up to “be president of the United States and they’ll all have colorful administrations.”

What a strange movie to confront in 2008. As the world knows, Barack Obama’s own white mother and African father met at the University of Hawaii. In “Dreams From My Father,” he even imagines the awkward dinner where his mother introduced her liberal-ish parents to her intended in 1959. But what’s most startling about this archaic film is the sole element in it that proves inadvertently contemporary. Faced with a black man in the mold of the Poitier character — one who appears “so calm” and without “tensions” — white liberals can make utter fools of themselves. When Joe Biden spoke of Obama being “clean” and “articulate,” he might have been recycling Spencer Tracy’s lines of 41 years ago.

Biden’s gaffe, though particularly naked, prefigured a larger pattern in the extraordinary election campaign that has brought an African-American to the brink of the presidency. Our political and news media establishments — fixated for months on tracking down every unreconstructed bigot in blue-collar America — have their own conspicuous racial myopia, with its own set of stereotypes and clichés. They consistently underestimated Obama’s candidacy because they often saw him as a stand-in for the two-dimensional character Poitier had to shoulder in “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner.” It’s why so many got this election wrong so often.

There were countless ruminations, in print and on television, asking the same two rhetorical questions: “Is He Black Enough?” and “Is He Tough Enough?” The implied answer to both was usually, “No.” The brown-skinned child of biracial parents wasn’t really “black” and wouldn’t appeal to black voters who were overwhelmingly loyal to the wife of America’s first “black” president. And as a former constitutional law professor, Obama was undoubtedly too lofty an intellectual to be a political street fighter, too much of a wuss to land a punch in a debate, too ethereal to connect to “real” Americans. He was Adlai Stevenson, Michael Dukakis or Bill Bradley in dark face — no populist pugilist like John Edwards.

The list of mistaken prognostications that grew from these flawed premises is long. As primary season began, we were repeatedly told that Hillary Clinton’s campaign was the most battle-tested and disciplined, with an invincible organization and an unbeatable donors’ network. Poor Obama had to settle for the ineffectual passion of the starry-eyed, Internet-fixated college kids who failed to elect Howard Dean in 2004. When Clinton lost in Iowa, no matter; Obama could never breach the “firewalls” that would wrap up her nomination by Super Tuesday. Neither the Clinton campaign nor the many who bought its spin noticed the take-no-prisoners political insurgency that Obama had built throughout the caucus states and that serves him to this day.

Once Obama wrested the nomination from Clinton by surpassing her in organization, cash and black votes, he was still often seen as too wimpy to take on the Republicans. This prognosis was codified by Karl Rove, whose punditry for The Wall Street Journal and Newsweek has been second only to Jon Stewart and Stephen Colbert as a reliable source of laughs this year. Rove called Obama “lazy,” and over the summer he predicted that his fund-raising had peaked in February and that he’d have a “serious problem” winning over Hispanics. Well, Obama was lazy like a fox, and is leading John McCain among Hispanics by 2 to 1. Obama has also pulled ahead among white women despite the widespread predictions that he’d never bring furious Hillary supporters into the fold.

But certainly the single most revelatory moment of the campaign — about the political establishment, not Obama — arrived in June when he reversed his position on taking public financing. This was a huge flip-flop (if no bigger than McCain’s on the Bush tax cuts). But the reaction was priceless. Suddenly the political world discovered that far from being some exotic hothouse flower, Obama was a pol from Chicago. Up until then it rarely occurred to anyone that he had to be a ruthless competitor, not merely a sweet-talking orator, to reach the top of a political machine even rougher than the Clinton machine he had brought down. Whether that makes him more black or more white remains unresolved.

Early in the campaign, the black commentator Tavis Smiley took a lot of heat when he questioned all the rhetoric, much of it from white liberals, about Obama being “post-racial.” Smiley pointed out that there is “no such thing in America as race transcendence.” He is right of course. America can no sooner disown its racial legacy, starting with the original sin of slavery, than it can disown its flag; it’s built into our DNA. Obama acknowledged as much in his landmark speech on race in Philadelphia in March.

Yet much has changed for the better since the era of “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner,” thanks to the epic battles of the civil-rights movement that have made the Obama phenomenon possible. As Mark Harris reminds us in his recent book about late 1960s Hollywood, “Pictures at a Revolution,” it was not until the year of the movie’s release that the Warren Court handed down the Loving decision overturning laws that forbade interracial marriage in 16 states; in the film’s final cut there’s still an outdated line referring to the possibility that the young couple’s nuptials could be illegal (as Obama’s parents’ marriage would have been in, say, Virginia). In that same year of 1967, L.B.J.’s secretary of state, Dean Rusk, offered his resignation when his daughter, a Stanford student, announced her engagement to a black Georgetown grad working at NASA. (Johnson didn’t accept it.)

Obama’s message and genealogy alike embody what has changed in the decades since. When he speaks of red and blue America being seamlessly woven into the United States of America, it is always shorthand for the reconciliation of black and white and brown and yellow America as well. Demographically, that’s where America is heading in the new century, and that will be its destiny no matter who wins the election this year.

Still, the country isn’t there yet, and should Obama be elected, America will not be cleansed of its racial history or conflicts. It will still have a virtually all-white party as one of its two most powerful political organizations. There will still be white liberals who look at Obama and can’t quite figure out what to make of his complex mixture of idealism and hard-knuckled political cunning, of his twin identities of international sojourner and conventional middle-class overachiever.

After some 20 months, we’re all still getting used to Obama and still, for that matter, trying to read his sometimes ambiguous takes on both economic and foreign affairs. What we have learned definitively about him so far — and what may most account for his victory, should he achieve it — is that he had both the brains and the muscle to outsmart, outmaneuver and outlast some of the smartest people in the country, starting with the Clintons. We know that he ran a brilliant campaign that remained sane and kept to its initial plan even when his Republican opponent and his own allies were panicking all around him. We know that that plan was based on the premise that Americans actually are sick of the divisive wedge issues that have defined the past couple of decades, of which race is the most divisive of all.

Obama doesn’t transcend race. He isn’t post-race. He is the latest chapter in the ever-unfurling American racial saga. It is an astonishing chapter. For most Americans, it seems as if Obama first came to dinner only yesterday. Should he win the White House on Tuesday, many will cheer and more than a few will cry as history moves inexorably forward.

But we are a people as practical as we are dreamy. We’ll soon remember that the country is in a deep ditch, and that we turned to the black guy not only because we hoped he would lift us up but because he looked like the strongest leader to dig us out.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/02/opinion/02rich.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&em